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Unfortunately they have removed their realistically priced Locost chassis plans from sale due to the high cost of public liability and professional indemnity. It seems that 3 years ago Vodou freely published as set of plans, for a Miata based build, however it looks like they are not around anymore. There are plans circulating around for several different sized frames. This can be confusing. “Book” frame refers to the frame in Ron Champion’s.

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And I found out that the instructions for the longitudinal position of the front suspension brackets is completely missing in the book, which must play havoc with the castor angles of the real thing – unbelievable!

Previous topic Next topic. The plans are not complete, but they should provide you with a very good and very accurate starting point. Unfortunately they have removed plasn realistically priced Locost chassis plans from sale due to the lkcost cost of public liability and professional indemnity insurance. On the other hand, the buffed paint looked really nice, blotchy in appearance with shiny edges, just like steel before it rusts.

I might try splitting it into smaller files Bill.

Scratchbuilt 1/10 scale Locost chassis

Notes regarding Unit of Llocost Generally I managed to build the chassis within 0. Even cleaning the airbrush was almost too long a delay! The keen observer will spot that the tunnel is not symmetrical at the front and rear, since it was specifically designed to accomodate the Ford Escort Mark 2 drive train. The scale was chosen for convenience: Jim McSorley Sevenesque site with drawings of various versions. I have included some notes with the photos where appropriate.

As an example, a Lotus Seven has a torsional stiffness of around 1, Nm per degree. Next were the skins, and I started with those at the bottom of the passenger compartment.

For modern high-performance cars, 30, Nm per degree is the target. Concluding the construction of the space frame were six diagonals in the sides. Facebook Twitter Car and Driver.


Fri Dec 05, 3: There are three drawing packages to choose from. I might try splitting it into smaller files Bill You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

Locost chassis build

The suspension brackets can be mounted according to the layout provided by the book, but the length of the front wishbones should be customized to be sure the track width agrees with the donor axle following assembly. I used a JLC saw to cut some connections, and realign some tubes to square the chassis. I obtained a great set of detailed plans from Formula Motor Sport in Queensland and incorporated many of their ideas into my chassis.

Frame plans are too big to upload as a zip file. So take a look at the photo albums and follow my project as it grew into a home built, road registered sports car. Or can anyone hook me up with a set of the documents? Locowt first is the frame and the second is the wishbones.

• View topic – Vodou plans

It seems that 3 years ago Vodou freely published as set of plans, for a Miata based build, however it looks like they are not around anymore The increased length provides an additional two inches for the pedal box and another two inches in the engine bay. My own car reportedly achieves 22, I built the lower side of the frame on the drawing of page 47, scanned, scaled to 1 to 10, and plxns printed. First up I built a solid timber table with steel legs to provide the level plqns required for the space-frame construction, which also gave me a chance to practice locodt cutting and welding skills before launching into the serious construction stuff.

Donor is stripped, and i am about to cut steel.


The Saturn Sports Cars plans are freely available. Most car chassis are ‘space frames’ which are usually two truss sides connected with a collection of of transverse tubes. Standard front wishbones should bolt right up assuming the track width of the donor axle is exactly 4″ greater than the UK based Ford Escort Mk1 the book donor. Next the ‘sheet metal’ of the transmission tunnel, the rear uprights, olans footwell front, plana sides of the car, the top of the footwell, and the nose bottom panel were added, in that order.


The images below show the level of detail provided in the drawing files. I wanted to preserve some of the floppiness of the sheet metal, hence this thin gauge.

Measure twice, and cut once is a good rule to follow, so i have been trying to gather as much chassis information as I can. The book tells you to build the floor panel and the rearmost side panel from 1. I’m especially fascinated with three-dimensional truss structures for car chassis design, which so far I haven’t locots a real example of.

In the real world oocost, the overall effect of this discrepancy is negligible given the accuracy of most shop tools or lack thereof.

Any help or pointers for this would be greatly appreciated. Instead I decided to build the chassis in 1 to 10 scale. I followed the book’s building sequence to the letter, and at this point of construction I ran into problems. I used 5 x 5 mm square tube, with one wall cut away.

Would you like to know when this website changes? Thanks in advance, and happy locosting!!! I need to quit looking stuff up on my phone. Not an error but more an improvement: Chassis rigidity – FEA25 pages.

As you can see, I had started base-coating the model too, using Humbrolin search of building defects. CA glue was used throughout, allowing for fast bonding. For example, it would be great to have a 3D model of all of this, but that is going to take another search to find.