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Jack Geldard gaining the Brittle Ledges, Eiger North Face, kb . to be very accurate, but the B&W photo topo was not very useful. Although the north face of the Eiger has several routes, by far the most famous and popular is the original route – known as The route. This free topo and. Topo map · Swisstopo Grindelwald. Geology. Mountain type · Limestone. Climbing. First ascent, 11 August Easiest route, basic rock/snow/ice climb ( AD). The Eiger is a 3,metre (13, ft) mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald The two stations within the Eiger are Eigerwand ( behind the north face) and.

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This was going to be the last really hard pitch of Odyssee. The name of the game on the Eiger is speed. Grindelwald lay on m a.

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Barrington describes the reaching of the top, saying, “the two guides kindly gave me the place of first man up. To me, the Odyssee is obviously a personal milestone.

I was motivated to have my best climbing performance ever, so I spent most of the winter climbing and training in Catalonia. Although the north face now has several routes, by far the most famous and popular is the original route – known as the route. Toni Kurz was still alive but almost helpless, with one hand and one arm completely frozen. Rob’s Marmot Sawtooth is rated to -9c and weighs in at g. Since the Eigerwand station is not regularly served anymore.


Eiger – Wikipedia

There will be Difficult Crack Belay pegs, old slings. If you haven’t filled your trousers on the easy but rather exposed Brittle Ledges, then this little monster might give you the final push. This means no bivvy gear is required and the climbers can move fast and travel light.

With pitch descriptions, approach and descent information and an accurate route-line, this With this clothing combination i was warm for the whole route including the bivy’s. A storm then broke and after eigeer days on the wall they had to retreat. We have tried to make this cover eiged you need to know for the route. A month later and it was time to pack up camp and fface to the forests of Chamonix.

Be careful not to go to left, big corner with ice — but hard. Quite exposed but easy max IV. I was totally motivated to climb into the unknown with pumped facw, to clip with stressed, pumping tppo. With our passion to free the great old Eiger routes, we were also able to free the Harlin Direttissima, with the Heckmair exit, inand in we freed the Ghilini-Piola Direttissima.

Tenuous smears, old pegs, bad rock and little in the way of leader placed protection characterise these thankfully short and spread-out pitches. It has several pegs and slings dangling from its reaches.

Above them will be a ridge. Start the route at a reasonable time and climb to the Death Bivvy By far the best bivvy site on the route.


After a rest day in the physical sense only at the outdoor trade show in Friedrichshafen, Germany, we continued on the Eiger. One call was all it took to convince him to join us on Eiger.

Lang Oberaletsch Aletsch Fiescher. The Dream Tace was complete! And I am proud of the route, which consists of good quality rock and is great fun to climb.

Hauling someone from a crevasse. We really only used bolts where we had no other possibilities. Fly is located in the Lauterbrunnen Valley in Switzerland and consists of 21 pitches graded up to 8c. The final were a little easier, at least concerning the grade. The Difficult Crack is a loose, steep, shattered crack that rears up for 20m then eases off in to a smeary, technical scoop with limited protection opportunities. This article has been read 92, times.

Factor Two – S2 Episode 2: Possibly the technical crux of the route, but short, solid and well protected; Rob balanced his way up the Quartz Crack as if it was just another gritstone boulder problem. At 2, metres inside the mountain lies the Eigerwand railway station.

I tried to scan the featureless sky above and ahead of me to try and make out even the faintest outlines of the mythical mountain but thoughts quickly turned to finding somewhere to bivy for the night.